Bentley's at it Again!

Day 5 with Bentley!

Let’s talk about what the first five days were like. He came in with his owner and proceeded to tear around the house like a cyclone. Impulse control is not part of his DNA. And, Boxers are dogs that are definitely not what I call SNAGs (sensitive new age guys). No amount of shouting or restraint will deter a boxer from doing what they intend to do. So, all my beautiful pottery had to be secured or stashed away as did the guitars and anything else that is remotely breakable. He immediately went scoping out the kitchen counters and that is definitely something that needs to be addressed.

Bentley barking at his own image in the mirror.

The second day he was here we had a “play date” with Mira, the 9-month old GSD. She’s quite large and imposing and even with some time at dog daycare his social skills seem limited. Bentley proceeded to offend Mira by coming on too strong, not reading her cues or giving any discernible cues to her, so a fight ensued. Mira’s owner is my other trainer, Christina Moore, so she was able (she’s a lot younger and taller than I am) to grab Mira and I eventually got Bentley and we separated them and started again. First, with the all too overlooked but critical “butt sniffing” activity to help familiarize them with one another. Then we made sure to put them both in a neutral area and took off their leashes at the same time. We gave them both enough space to dodge and feint and to retreat and run with and from each other. The more space, the less tense the interaction will be. Within minutes and with a lot of encouragement, in the form of clapping and high-pitched “happy talk” from me and Christina, they started playing like champs. They actually played well for a good 25 minutes until their tongues were hanging out of their mouths and much water was consumed.

Needless to say, Bentley’s social skills need some help. Given his “boxer-like” general behavior, it’s not a surprise that he has less refined social skills than other pups his age. Another important thing to know about him is that he is still intact, so that’s another huge issue. Boxers present in a very macho way - just their physical presence and demeanor is characterized by jaw sticking up and out and their huge chest. My first and most wonderful dog, Oliver, had problems with only one breed of dog and it was Boxers. I figured out a long time ago that is was simply the posturing of the dog and it’s physical appearance was all it took to set Oliver on a ferocious display of aggression.

I have found the key to being able to train Bentley is to exercise him well, get him the play he needs on a daily basis - enough so that when I attempt to train with him, he is not distracted by any and everything that comes along. So, today, when the house painter came to start a project, I took him for a good intense 45 minute walk. I thought that would provide the attitude adjustment he needed, but the second I let him into the house he pounced on the poor painter who was on the floor painting baseboards. An immediate visit to the crate was in order. I’m not sure I got him in there quickly enough to make the proper impression on the naughty boxer about how inappropriate his behavior was at that moment. Rule of thumb… timing is everything in training. If you delay feedback to the dog by even 3 seconds, it’s too late. I’ll write more as there is more to tell.

Bentley the Boxer

It’s been a long while since I blogged and I think the isolation created by the pandemic and the incredible influx of people and puppies has created a space to resume this activity. I’m almost 65 and I’ve never been busier as a dog trainer. Dogs bring comfort - there’s no argument to be made in reference to that statement. That said, people in isolation often make rash decisions to get what they think they want and need without doing the requisite research. This brings me to Bentley.

Bentley is a 7-month old beautiful Boxer pup. His owner is a lovely guy, a professional HR consultant - I imagine to be in his mid to late 30’s. He lives in Seattle and works a lot. He hasn’t had the time nor the expertise to give his incredibly energetic and misbehaving pup the clear and firm direction that he needed. So, that’s where I come in and boy, do I have my work cut out for me. When I first met Bentley and his owner, Joe, I wasn’t sure I was up to the task. At 6-months, he was already over 30 pounds and growing fast. By the time he got delivered for the start of his 4-week board & train he’s probably a good 40 lbs. He’s got all the normal boxer puppy behaviors, ie: wiggle butt syndrome, can’t sit still when asked, is like a bull in a china shop (so all the pottery had to be put away), selective hearing, and ignoring what’s asked of him, and the list goes on. But, in addition to that, I found out he has a fairly developed resource guarding instinct and has now tried to bite me a few times over the marrow bone that his owner brought him to keep him occupied. He also started charging my two docile dogs at the feeding areas in and around the food bowls. No Bueno!

He intermittently harasses my 16-year old, 40 pound and 6 pound poodle mixes. The former tolerates it and says nothing, the little guy, Rudy, schools him like he’s a big dog and (believe it or not) is instrumental in putting Bentley in his place. This is good, since he came with a tendency to harass small dogs. In the next couple of weeks, I’m going to talk about the ways that I’m both training Bentley and also coping with this very lovable but very active and naughty pup.

Another AMG (Advanced Meet & Greet)

It's the season for going out for walks and it's the time of year when people realize that their dog is not the best at being out in public on leash. Either the amount of foot traffic has increased with the good weather, or the dog is overstimulated by the sights and smells of spring. In any case, the dogs are "on fire" and they are more reactive than usual. 

It might be time for a group class to address on-leash reactivity. Our Advanced Meet & Greet is our most popular class geared towards helping people become much better dog handlers. It's important to understand why dogs become reactive and how to get them to be less reactive. Our AMG class focuses on desensitizing and counter-conditioning the dogs to the things that cause them to react. Some of the dogs in the class are reactive to other dogs, some to strange or novel people and others to random moving things like skateboards, bikes, motorcycles and the like. 

In each case, we help the dog become less reactive to these things (desensitized) and feel better about them if they are scared or overstimulated (counter-conditioned). It's a wonderful class and the people who graduate from it have a whole new "leash" on life with their dogs. Pun intended!

Sparky Hits a Milestone

It's been a whole week since we started Sparky's "board & train" program. In that week, he's started peeing and pooping outside (hurray!) instead of in my house on my new area rugs. He's barking and baying a great deal less to get attention or to get what he wants. He's learned an amazing number of skills and has proven to be "off the chart" smart.

Most importantly, he's started to play with other dogs. Now, I can't tell you all how important it is to have the ability to like, get along with and play with other dogs. As I told his owner today, it will help him to be able to know he's a dog and not a four-legged human. Getting the canine interaction, learning to give and receive cues and just getting to play like a dog will help him to better assimilate into the human household as well. He's getting his needs met - play biting on other pups will alleviate his urge to bite on his owners. It will tire him out and satiate his need for play and interaction. 

The biggest improvement of all is his attention and focus. Those of you who are not familiar with Beagles will not know this, but they are low to the ground and their noses and sense of smell dominate their behavior. To get Sparky to lift his nose off the ground and pay attention, especially on a walk is a huge feat. Slowly, we are accomplishing this goal. Like I told his owner, it's a labor of love. I want to give back to this military vet for all that he gave us in his three tours. I want to help him have the service animal he needs and deserves. For now, he's fast asleep and, hopefully, I will be too very soon. Keeping up with a young pup is exhausting!

More later!

Sparky poops out! Literally and figuratively!

We've finished Day 4 of Sparky's Board & Train program. The first night he bayed (in a high pitch awful and mournful way) in his crate from 10PM to 1AM until he finally stopped and went to sleep and slept until 5am. I finally gave in and put him in bed with me and he allowed me another 2 hours of much needed sleep. Trying to get him to sleep in a crate may not happen. He's probably, of all the puppies I've trained in 15 plus year, one of the most willful and indefatigable. 

What has been even more important is the house training. I really and truly understand why his poor owner gleefully handed over this 4-month old Beagle. Not only does he bay at almost any provocation, he really doesn't understand where he is supposed to eliminate. He will go outside, but if you are not watching him every second, he will come inside and do it again there. He has now pooped and peed on three of my brand new area rugs. Thankfully, I invested in a new carpet cleaner, but the seagrass rug, which is not new, is also not cleanable, so that one will need to go to the dump. Baying or not, if I cannot watch this puppy like a hawk, he's going into the crate. There will be no more accidents in the house. 2 weeks and 3 days left on Sparky's board and train. Yes, I'm counting the days. And, I still have much work to do.

He pooped and so am I!

Sparky! A real firecracker!

I just started a three-week board & train with Sparky - a 4-month old Beagle pup. The list of issues are, on the surface, typical puppy ones. Inconsistent with house training, not able to be left in a crate without baying (boy does he have a set of lungs on him), limited attention and focus and, absolutely (I kid you not) no impulse control. If it's on the floor, table, ground or wherever he can reach, and it's in his mouth. So we begin!

One thing we didn't know about - and neither did the owner - Sparky has no idea how to play with other puppies. He doesn't even seem to have any interest in other puppies. Personally, I think he's afraid, so the work really begins in helping him to understand how to be a puppy - how to play, how to listen and how to behave. Check in later for more and wish me luck!

11:20am Saturday, March 17th!

We just finished Puppy Kindergarten and Sparky ran away from each of the puppies in the class, which consisted of two German Shepherds, one Golden Retriever and a Goldendoodle. It was sad, really to see just how scared he became. He actually screamed in his all too charming high pitch "bay". The good news is that his attention and focus in developing. I was able to get and keep his attention in spite of all the distractions and in the face of the fear that he clearly feels. I know this is a challenging situation, but I'm going to work especially hard with this little guy. His owner is a vet of three tours and Sparky is going to be his emotional support animal. Back to work!

Sam I Am!

I just started a "boot camp" with a five month old Boston Terrier named Sam. Admittedly, I have never had a real "love affair" with Boston Terriers, but this guy is really challenging. He's super cute - has one brown eye and one blue one and his ears are huge and stand straight up. I know he's used his "good looks" to give him license to do things he shouldn't do. 

I got a long list of behaviors to work on from his owner who is away on vacation and Sam is boarding with us while she is gone. One of those things was leash walking and she wasn't kidding - he's awful. Usually, I can get most dogs walking well in one intensive session. Well, not Sam! He has two modes when he's walking. He either plants his four feet and won't budge, or he pulls like a banshee. The pulling part I can deal with using our own "walking Zen" technique to get the dog to focus on you instead of what he/she is pulling toward. The refusal to walk is another story.

I called the owner and asked if this was a typical behavior and found out that this is something Sam does when he's not in the mood to walk or a little too tired. So, I've got my work cut out for me. Another work in progress! Check in later in the week and, hopefully, I'll have made some progress.

Hatch Won't Come!

I never thought I'd say this, but after 15 years of training dogs, I finally met one that can't, or better said, "won't" come when called. His name is Hatch and he's a mini Golden Doodle. He's 9 months old, did two basic obedience classes and he quite literally will not come when called. I have had him for 10 days and have worked with him tirelessly day in and day out doing recall exercises, using a long lead and trying every trick I know.

Last night, I had a few friends over to watch the Oscars. As one came in the front door, Hatch dodged out before we could do anything to stop him. I know many of you have dealt with this panic stricken situation, but when it happens to a professional dog trainer, well, it's another thing altogether. And, to add insult to injury, this is the main reason I decided to get into this work. I actually lost a dog who was a runner and did exactly what Hatch did - ran out into traffic and was killed. So, the panic I feel is based on real life experience.

Back to Hatch! He does a thing I'm not used to. Most dogs get out and they run in the opposite direction, which is also scary and very problematic. Hatch just plays with you. He sits and waits for you to get close and then dodges around you playing with your mind - playing "keep away" and "catch me". It's infuriating! I try all the things I tell people to do to get a dog to come. I use a high happy voice, I back up or run in the opposite direction to inspire him. I get out really high value food treats and get really animated. None of this works with Hatch. He comes when he's good and ready and not a minute sooner.

After he ran out the front door last night he seemed to be contained in the front of house, which is unfenced. Then he saw a dog across the street and down the block and he took off barking. He does seem to have a bit of fear-based reactivity. At nine months old he came with very unrefined social skills and we did some remedial socializing to get him to a point where we could safely co-mingle him at our daycare. With the help of my well-trained daycare staff and some very patient daycare dogs, we were able to do this with great success. I was also able to get him (at 9 months of age) to start consistently "go potty" outside instead of in. The recall - a work in progress!

Last night, I was able to get him back before my heart gave out and didn't miss any important Oscar presentations. The evening was saved, but we've got a ways to go before Hatch has a decent recall.

A piece of good news though! Hatch only tore up a couple of tissues during his stay with me, unlike the pictures of him above from one day at home just before his stay with me. His owner wanted me to know exactly what I was getting myself into by letting me know what Hatch got into.

LOL!

Dog Gone Jumping Dogs

Dogs jump! It's what they do. In fact, I've almost never met one that doesn't. When dogs are puppies and then as young healthy adults, dogs jump because they get excited and it's fun to jump on their people and onto things that are readily accessible to them.

Face it folks. Many dogs are simply jumping machines. They are built to jump. To get your dog to stop jumping is at first, a daily task that, if not undertaken, will lead you to a life of yelling and correcting the action over and over - until you are sick of it or, even worse, embarrassed it when your dog knocks someone down.

If you deal with this in the beginning, it's much, much easier. I tell people that puppies are like soft pieces of clay. As they get older (like clay left out) they get harder to train. Dogs behave based on their history of reinforcement and if a dog learns it's okay to jump from years of doing it, that becomes the "reinforced" behavior. 

So, what do you do? Give the dog an alternative or "redirected" behavior to perform instead of jumping and reward that consistently. So, as the puppy or dog approaches you, tell it to "sit" before it has a chance to jump on you. Do this over and over and over until you're sick of doing it, and then do it some more. Repetition is critical in training. 

Get the redirected "sitting" behavior 100% inside your home before you start to ask the dog to do it outside. Remember, the more distractions, the more difficult it is for the dog to behave. They are so easily distracted.

Now, get started teaching your puppy or adult dog to sit instead of jumping. If the dog is older and has be eliciting this behavior for a much longer time - be patient! It will take more time to learn a new behavior, but you can teach older dogs new and better tricks!

In a few days I'll talk about how to get them to stop jumping when you are sitting down in the chair or a sofa.

Hand Shyness in Dogs

Hi folks!

It's been a while since I've blogged and part of the reason is because I was podcasting instead. Sometimes, the written word is even better, so here goes.

Many dogs have a natural shyness or fear of hands. And, I'm not talking about dogs that suffered some type of abuse. These dogs are going to be much more than hand shy. I'm talking about dogs that are simply afraid of hands - they haven't been hurt by anyone.

I believe strongly that dogs with hand shyness are suffering from a specific kind of proximity sensitivity that occurs when a person they either know or (more typically) someone they don't know approaches them with their hands extended. In general, dogs that have fear-based anxiety around humans suffer from "proximity sensitivity". These are dogs that are okay with people unless or until one gets a little too close and then they will show various signs of discomfort.

I have a dog that I'm working with right now - a West Highland Terrier that is continuously playing "keep away" and will run the other way when approached to put on a leash or harness or to simply secure from running out the door. Every time someone approaches her by bending down or walking toward her, she darts away in the opposite direction. She's fast and determined (typical of this breed) and very hard-wired, meaning it's apparently very difficult to change. The good and bad news is that this particular dog (she's about 10 months old) is still a puppy and very smart. So, there is hope that we can change the behavior. The bad news is that while I'm fighting the good fight to reverse or re-pattern the behaviors using sound counter-conditioning techniques, I'm fairly certain these techniques are not being reinforced at home. 

So, what are the techniques. Without giving away all of our tricks, there is a simple classical conditioning exercise (Pavlov, folks!) where you turn sideways and simply squat and open your hand and let the dog approach take a treat from you. You do this without looking at the dog until he or she is approaching without hesitation. Keep moving around and do this same exercise over and over from different angles and in different parts of the room. Switch rooms and start again. This is what it means to "generalize" an activity or behavior. The dog has to be able to apply what it has learned from one place and situation to another.  Skip the gym and do your squats that day by getting the dog to do this 100 times. It is said by experts who have done the research that for every time your dog has done something you want to change, you have to do 100 "trials" or have 100 opportunities to reinforce the desired behavior. So, if my Westie has run away from her owner 50 times, I have to perform 5,000 of these squatting exercises. Holy crap! That's a lot of work. Yes, it is! But it's worth it if you can get a dog that runs towards you and not away from you.

Helping dogs get over hand shyness is a labor of love and incredibly important. Before I became a trainer, I had a hand-shy, small dog (a Papillon/Chihuahua mix) that ran away from a human and right into traffic. It was heart breaking and tragic and something I want no one to go through. The lesson is to put in the time and get your dog comfortable with coming toward you and is not afraid of being touched. The end of that story is you get to have a more confident and secure dog that lives to a ripe old age.

It's All About the ZEN!

Even though direct eye contact is initially something most dogs are not inclined to do on their own, dogs can learn to do it with just a little effort from a good trainer and, then, their owner.  Because dogs are so easily distracted, establishing and maintaining their attention can have immediate and profound effects on their behavior. If all it takes is the wind blowing in a different direction or a leaf blowing down the sidewalk to take your dog’s attention away, being able to get and keep the dog’s attention for any length of time is the key to having enormous control.

Just yesterday I met with a new client and her 3-month old Aussie Shepherd puppy. The owner was stunned when I was able to get the puppy to sit still and look at me for several seconds at a time. His general demeanor, like most Aussies, is to be in constant motion – non-stop energy. All it took was a short signal to tell the puppy a treat it coming. Once the signal is made, the puppy has more motivated to stay focused – a treat is in his future.

Most savvy dog owners understand that dogs were originally bred to serve multiple functions. Herding, guarding, hunting, and ratting were just a few of the many reasons dogs were bred. These jobs were ones that kept the dog busy, occupied and happy. Without these “occupations” dogs are now severely underutilized and, ultimately, “underemployed”. Without specific jobs to do we relegate our pet dogs to a life of boredom and very often, they will self-assign jobs like chewing up whatever they find laying around or digging holes in our backyards.  Or, instead of becoming destructive, dogs may develop neurotic behaviors like pacing or unnecessarily guarding the house, barking at anything that goes by.

I Need Your Attention, PLEASE!

The number one problem with most companion dogs is not the dreaded pulling on leash, or the embarrassment of jumping up on strangers or the anxiety-ridden reluctance to come when called.  The overriding behavioral problem with the majority of pet dogs is lack of attention.  Dogs, by nature are highly distracted and most dog owners are not aware of how important it is to establish and maintain the dog’s attention and focus.

When I introduce our ZEN techniques to new clients, I do so with the clear understanding that to get eye contact from a dog is counterintuitive to them.  And, when I suggest to clients that we start a program of ZEN exercises, I often get a raised eyebrow and a fair amount of skepticism to go with it.  It’s not a new technique, but one that I’ve developed extensively and has many practical uses for dog owners.

Look Me In the EYES

Using ZEN techniques to refocus the dog and occupy its mind has saved many dog owners from a lifetime of destructive or neurotic behaviors. These exercises, done in the quiet of your own home – in any type of weather – becomes the dog’s new job. Along with great attention and focus, you are able to gain great impulse control from the dog.  It helps dogs understand how to stay still, leave objects alone that do not belong to them and maintain a certain level of calm.

To find out more about these wonderful techniques, look for our next issue!

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